Canoe 2005 Diary
Wednesday, June 29
Bob, two Gerrys and Wally have lunch at an Italian
restaurant. Anne shows up a half hour early at 2:30 p.m. (Delayed start due to
Anne having to work that day.) We finish packing and load up, leaving for the
bush at 2:45. Anne leads us through what the Bugensteins describe as "one
of the most congested" traffic areas in the United States, which turns out
to discredit them as we are not delayed at all. Anne is a great and very fast
driver, Gerry Jr. steering from the back seat.
Supper at Black Woods Bar and Grill in Two Harbors.
Temperature along Lake Superior a sudden drop from the Minneapolis 80° to about
50° -- but felt like 35°. Heavy fog, drizzle of rain and strong south wind add
to our discomfort whenever we leave the car.
Night at Sugar Beach in a tiny cabin (designed according to
the owners for three maximum) with double beds. A brief trek 50 yards to the
lakeshore our only exercise. Evening telling family stories and a brief review
of Indian time telling -- but only Fox (for obvious reasons) used on trip. To
bed with much rain, lightning and snoring.
Day 1: Thursday,
June 30
Team members up beginning at 5:30 a.m. Temperature 55°. Not
raining but deeply overcast and foggy. Breakfast at restaurant at foot of road
to Sawbill (have to wait 15 minutes for them to open at 7:00) then on to the
outfitters.
Greetings at Sawbill by Frank and Mary Alice Hansen, who
have been pre-warned by EFC -- by email (and letter?) -- of our arrival. Much
help with outfitting by two well-prepared young women. Watch the brand new
(Mary Alice watched with us) Forest Service DVD on rules and procedures.
A third young woman (UMinn art/art history major) drives us
to our departure point at foot of Lake Kiwishiwi. She leaves with the van and
we suddenly find ourselves on our own.
Off we go into the bush at 11:00 a.m.
The wind is against us -- what else is new? -- for most of
Kiwishiwi but variable through the channel into Square Lake. First (and only)
portage 20 rods between Square and our target for the day, Kawasashong Lake.
Difficulty getting into canoes at the end of this portage portends our later
experience with rocks. Gerry Jr. wades, pulling his dad in canoe. The
Bugensteins wisely launch the other canoe farther downstream. (On this trip
canoes suffer worse indignities than ever before on BWCA outings. It is a
wonder we are not charged extra for damage.)
Despite occasional soft rain the rest of our passage is very
pleasant. In fact a second portage turns out to be an easy paddle-through. The
Risings lead but miss entrance and have to follow the other canoe.
Kawasashong is unexpectedly busy and we end up with the only
remaining campsite on the lake, a definite D-. Wind increases as we land but
rain stops. We have spent less than two hours underway, an easy "breaking
in" day.
We set up our single tent designated "for six
men." Six midgets perhaps! Our reasonably comfortable sleeping
arrangements are: Anne across back of tent with two Gerrys and Bob
perpendicular to her. This allows her to give Gerry Sr., who sleeps in the
middle, an occasional soft knee to the head and to give her dad assistance
finding stuff among his gear. Unfortunately Gerry Jr.'s sleeping bag is
designed for one of those midgets and has a malfunctioning zipper. All three
others offer to trade but offers are made with such evident reservations (near
tears)
that he cannot accept. His snoring through the remainder of
the trip suggests that his problems are not quite as bad as suggested.
Dinner: hamburgers, mashed potatoes and mocha mousse pie.
(Sadly, two of these desserts the closest we come to moose on the trip. We also
miss bears -- just as well given the height to which we hoist our food bag --
and, as usual, wolves. We will, however, later meet an aggressive chipmunk, two
beaver and several red squirrels.) Unfortunately, because of disintegrating
memory and single stove, this dinner is served serially, thus making potatoes
cold (like vichyssoise) by the time the excellent hamburgers a la Bob are done.
Gerry Sr. is definitely not at fault: he has spent the entire cooking time
standing around with hands in pockets -- his usual mealtime pose.
More showers through evening. Will we spend five days
sopping wet?
Political discussion commences with Bob (left) and Gerry Jr.
(right) the main protagonists, Anne entirely and Gerry Sr. mostly onlookers.
This will last until Gerry Jr. is dropped at the airport a week later.
To bed at 8:30 p.m., about average for the trip.
Birds: raven, blue jay.
Day 2: Friday,
July 1
Sleep until 7:00 a.m., the night broken only by occasional
ventures out by men -- always allowing in flights of mosquitoes. (This will be
standard nighttime behavior.) Much rain during night as well.
Still threatening weather when we arise but during breakfast
-- French toast (freedom toast to Gerry Jr.) -- it begins to break up and by
the time we are underway at 9 a.m. the transition to beautiful blue skies has
already begun.
Because everyone pitches in and despite wet gear, we break
camp at 9:00 bound for Polly Lake, Bob and Gerry Jr. in one canoe, Anne and old
Gerry in the other. Quarter mile paddle to end of Kawasashong Lake, then 189
rod portage to Townline. Another quarter mile paddle down this lake and 91 rod
portage into Polly. Although these are not easy carries, they are managed well.
We establish our routine: six loads -- two canoes and four packs -- meaning two
of us have to double back on each portage. We begin by alternating but by the
end of the trip the youngsters are doing almost all of the doubling. Four
notes: (1) Bob no longer carries two packs at once. (2) Gerry Jr. carries the
heaviest pack regularly, the equipment pack topped by the tent. (3) The amazing
Anne carries packs or canoe with no problem. (4) Gerry Sr. still needs a bridge
to carry the canoe.
On Polly we find the island campsite recommended by Wally,
but Bob and Gerry Sr. check another site. Bob considers the ambience of the
second better so we take that one. Despite this we are on site before noon.
Tent up, dinner (lasagna) eaten and cleaned up by 2 p.m. Gerry Jr. swims before
dinner. Afternoon rest and reading, then Bob and (finally and unexpectedly!)
Gerry Sr. swim. Several trips pass though the narrow pass next to our campsite
as do two beaver. One beaver climbs out of the water on the opposite shore: it
is as large as a small bear. A stone thrown near the other makes it dive but
not whack its tail.
Supper: grilled cheese and salami sandwiches. Marshmallows
over campfire in the evening.
Birds: bald eagle, grackle, mourning warbler (pair at
latrine), raven, merlin pair, common merganser, loon (others not me), winter
wren, red-eyed vireo, robin.
Day 3: Saturday,
July 2
Up at 6:00 a.m. with long day ahead. Weather overcast and
threatening, in fact while still on Polly light rain falls. But happily the day
turns bright and windy. By afternoon temperature about 75°, sky with less than
10% clouds.
Big day on the trail beginning at 8:00 a.m. Six portages
(96, 16, 92, 25, 59 and 140 rods), three terrible paddles through rocks, much
wind. At one point Anne slips on rocks and falls in. She proceeds to pull her
canoe (with Gerry in it) and the other through the mess. Gerry Jr. matches her
by taking a spill in high waves at campsite landing on Phoebe Lake. Along the
way we have paddled through Hazel (with salute to Duke's mother) and Knight
Lakes.
Reach campsite at 2 p.m. after six hours of hard work. No
breaks taken; we simply forget in our eagerness to reach our destination, a
beautiful high campsite, a definite B+. After we set up tent and before dinner
Gerry Jr. and Anne swim briefly in surf.
Dinner: chicken with dumplings, our best meal. Cherry-apple
cobbler looks much like bear dump and very sweet but reasonably good in small
portions.
Birds: redstart, yellow-rumped warbler, common mergansers,
winter wren, blue jay, red-eyed vireo.
Day 4: Sunday,
July 3
Brief shower at 5 a.m. Gerry Sr. wakes to it and announces,
"Ah s---!" which awakens others. Up at 6:30 to pause in rain long
enough to complete breakfast: pancakes by Anne. We originally planned to spend
a day of rest on Phoebe but decide (original 1-3 vote soon changes to 3-1) to
move on in order not to have another long day like yesterday. We hope to get to
Grace or possibly Ella or more remotely Beth.
We set out at 8:30 a.m. and exit Phoebe Lake as wind is
rising and whitecaps again beginning to occur. Grace River is a mess of rocks
and Gerry Jr. (for the remainder of the trip Mongo after the character in
Blazing Saddles, but Gerry Sr., who has never seen Blazing Saddles, recalls Mongo
as a planet visited by Buck Rogers) jumps out to haul canoes through. We
continue to hit individual rocks from here on, however. Rain varies but trails
are full of water and going is tough. After 85, 5 and 15 rod portages we reach
Grace Lake at 10 a.m. and decide to go on. The next portage is by far the most
punishing of the trip, 147 rods uphill through rocks to Ella Lake.
Embarrassing incident on this portage for Gerry Sr.
(henceforward just Gerry): He takes canoe only halfway across and doubles back.
Anne passes him carrying her canoe and, returning from the end of the portage
still passes him again before he can get back to Grace to carry a pack. This is
only one evidence of how the youngsters take over responsibilities on the trail
and campsite.
Note: The one exception to this is Mongo avoiding packing
the Rising pack. His father recognizes this behavior as genetic; he formerly
maneuvered Duke into doing that same packing for many years.
Despite near exhaustion at Ella Lake, we decide to give ourselves
an (almost) day of rest the next day by going on, 90 rods (but downhill) to
Beth. Although this may have been a mistake, we make it okay -- it is indeed
largely downhill -- and head out onto the lake.
This is again a popular lake and we worry about finding a
campsite. Our first goal is taken and a canoe appears to be headed for the
second (if we miss it, we'll have to retreat to the west end of the lake). We
still head for that second campsite and happily find that our supposed
competitors are just fishing. We arrive at 12:30 p.m., after another four tough
hours of trekking.
Tent up, Mongo takes over dinner preparation: spaghetti with
salami and green beans eaten by some in pita bread sandwiches. Very good.
Cheesecake dessert delayed for supper.
The afternoon again provides a good rest. Sunny but brief
shower as well. Everybody dozes but Gerry who wanders into the woods looking
for birds.
Supper: sandwiches prepared by Anne and that cheesecake.
A note about hanging pack. On the first night out Mongo
takes over from his father. A (new to us) pulley arrangement allows us to hang
pack between two trees, but we never raise it to the recommended 14 feet. Our
usual is 9-10 feet and fortunately no bear visits or if one does, his giggling
prevents him from reaching the pack.
Birds: sapsucker, magnolia warbler, Northern waterthrush,
turkey vulture, hermit and Swainson's thrushes, robin, loons, merlin, ravens.
Day 5: Monday,
July 4
Up at 6:30 a.m. We had planned to sleep an extra hour but a
nature call by Gerry led to early rising.
Spanish omelet prepared by Mongo for breakfast -- note the
kids taking over here as well. Bright morning sun helps to finish drying
clothing and especially boots from yesterday.
Off at a remarkable 8:15 a.m. as unstated cooperation leads
to less and less time getting ready. We paddle length of Beth Lake and cross
the 140 rod slightly downhill portage into Alton. Easy going compared to past
days. We then paddle up Alton to very nice campsite with sand beach opposite
the portage into Sawbill, a perfect location for our quick out tomorrow. We're
on our campsite at 10:15 a.m. to a day of relaxation and preparation to leave
the bush tomorrow.
After dinner (forgotten meal) while Mongo and Anne rest
Gerry and Bob prepare a big campfire using large amounts of gasoline. Finally
they get big birch logs and root burning for evening marshmallows, eaten almost
exclusively by Gerry.
Birds: sapsucker, song sparrow, red-eyed vireo, loon,
magnolia warbler, yellow-rumped warbler, common merganser.
Day 6: Tuesday,
July 5
Up at 5:45 a.m. It had rained hard during the night but the
sky is just overcast in the morning. No breakfast. Pack and off by 6:30 a.m.,
quite remarkable.
As usual, Gerry leads away from the portage that Bob has
located (he finally uses his GPS to lead us back to it). We cross the portage,
paddle down Sawbill Lake and reach the outfitters at 7:45 a.m.
Birds: sapsucker, Northern waterthrush, winter wren.
Shower, check in, talk to Bill (absent when we checked in)
and head for civilization at 8:45 a.m.
We again have breakfast at restaurant at foot of road near
Tofte and head back to Minneapolis. Usual discussion of murder in Duluth and we
miss the turn-off to Wisconsin (purposely but we remark on it in deference to
Wally). We are able not only to make Mongo's afternoon plane but have lunch at
the Mall of America.
Wally joins Bob and Gerry for dinner at an Olive Garden
restaurant.
Gerry stays over with Bob and leaves the following
afternoon.
